Buying a car with no title is the single most misunderstood transaction in the used-car world. Say the words “no title” to most buyers and you’ll watch their face change — like you’ve just told them the car is stolen, cursed, or both.
It isn’t. Not usually. Not even close.
A no-title car is simply a car whose state-issued ownership document is missing, delayed, or never transferred. The car itself is real. It has a VIN. It has an engine. It drives. What it doesn’t have is a piece of paper that says a particular government has already agreed who owns it.
That’s the whole thing. Everything else — the fear, the discount, the risk, the opportunity — flows from that one missing sheet of paper.
And here’s the part that should interest you: that missing sheet of paper is worth between 30% and 50% of the car’s value. Because most buyers can’t be bothered to solve a paperwork problem, the people who can buy the same car for a fraction of the money. That’s the entire game.
This guide covers all of it. What a no-title car actually is, how the legal side works in the US and abroad, how to check the car isn’t stolen, what to inspect, what it really costs, how to register it, and — because it matters — every single Camaro we currently have in stock, fourteen of them, from $2,800.
Read it properly. By the end you’ll know more about no-title buying than 95% of the people selling them.
What “Buying a Car With No Title” Actually Means
Let’s kill the confusion first, because the phrase gets used loosely and it hides several different situations.
A title — called a V5C in the UK, a Fahrzeugbrief or Zulassungsbescheinigung in Germany, a carte grise in France, a libretto in Italy — is a government-issued document recording who owns a vehicle. It is proof of ownership. It is not proof the car exists, proof it runs, or proof it’s worth anything.
When someone says “buy a car with no title,” they usually mean one of these:
The title exists but isn’t in the seller’s hand. Most common. The car was bought at auction, or inherited, or repossessed, and the paperwork never followed. The title may sit with a previous owner, an auction house, or a state authority.
The title was never issued. The car came off a salvage auction, was written off, and the title was surrendered to the state and never reissued. Common with insurance total losses.
The title is with a lienholder. The car was financed and the loan was never cleared, so the title sits with the bank.
The car was imported and never titled locally. Very common in export markets. The car arrives, customs clears it, and nobody has walked it through local registration yet.
The car is a “striker” — sold deliberately without a title. This is our model, and we’ll come to it properly.
None of these mean the car is broken, and none of them mean it’s stolen. They’re administrative gaps, and administrative gaps can be closed.
What a no-title car does mean is this: you, the buyer, take on the job of establishing ownership. You get a discount in exchange.
What a No-Title Car Is NOT
Because myths do real damage here, let’s list what “no title” does not mean.
- It does not mean no VIN. A no-title car almost always has a full, intact, checkable 17-digit VIN.
- It does not mean stolen. Stolen is a separate question, answered by the VIN, not the paperwork.
- It does not mean unregisterable. Most jurisdictions have a documented route.
- It does not mean it’s a wreck. Plenty of no-title cars are straight, low-mileage, undamaged cars whose paperwork got lost in the system.
- It does not mean you can’t insure it. You can, usually on the VIN.
- It does not mean it has no value. It means it has less frictionless value.
Hold onto that last distinction. The discount on a no-title car is not a reflection of the car. It’s a reflection of the paperwork. You’re being paid to do admin.
Why Cars End Up Without Titles
Understanding the cause tells you how much risk you’re carrying. Some causes are benign. A few are not.
Insurance write-offs. A car is damaged, the insurer pays out, takes the car, and the title is surrendered to the state. The car is then sold at salvage auction with a salvage certificate rather than a clean title. This is the single biggest source of no-title stock worldwide.
Total loss without recovery of the document. The car is paid out, the title goes missing in the insurer’s own admin, and the car is sold on a bill of sale.
Abandoned vehicles. Cars left on private land, in storage, or at workshops. Storage liens build up, the owner disappears, and the car is sold to recover costs.
Inherited vehicles. The owner dies, the family can’t find the title, and the car is sold as-is. Extremely common, extremely benign.
Uncleared liens. The car was financed, the loan defaulted, the car was repossessed, and the title sits with the lender or a third party.
Repossessions and fleet disposals. Companies and finance houses dispose of cars in bulk without walking each title through transfer.
Export stock. Cars bought specifically to ship abroad, where the state title is of limited use anyway. This is where the striker model lives.
Lost titles. Genuinely lost. Filled in a drawer, left in a glovebox, destroyed in a move. Nothing more sinister than that.
Never-titled imports. The car arrived in a country and was never registered there.
Notice how many of those are boring. Most no-title cars are boring. The interesting ones — liens and stolen-recovery — are exactly the ones a VIN check catches.
The Different Types of No-Title Car
Not all no-title cars are equal, and the terminology matters because it predicts what you can do with the car.
Clean title, just missing. The best case. The title exists, is clean, and can be reissued or transferred. Fix the paperwork and you have a normal car.
Salvage title / salvage certificate. The car was declared a total loss by an insurer. It’s registerable, insurable, and driveable, but the record follows it. See the Wikipedia entry on salvage titles for how the categories work state by state.
Rebuilt / reconstructed title. A salvage car that was repaired, inspected, and re-titled as rebuilt. Higher value than salvage, still carries the brand.
Bonded title. A title issued by a state authority against a surety bond, used precisely when ownership can’t be proven the normal way. This is the main legal route for no-title cars, and it’s covered in detail below. See Wikipedia: bonded title.
Certificate of destruction / junk title. The car was written off and marked non-repairable in some states, though many are actually repairable. Read the fine print.
Parts-only. Sold as a parts car. Still often registerable.
Untitled. Never titled in the jurisdiction at all.
Striker car. A car sold deliberately without a title, sourced from the US, with an intact VIN, intended for export or for the buyer to title themselves. See our striker car meaning page.
Know which one you’re looking at before you commit. The words on the paperwork decide your options.
Is It Legal to Buy a Car With No Title?
Yes — in almost every jurisdiction on earth. What varies is how you register it afterwards.
There is no law in the US, UK, EU, Gulf, Africa, Caribbean or Australasia that says a car must have a title to be sold. A bill of sale is a valid contract. Ownership transfers.
What the law cares about is registration and proof of ownership at registration time. That’s the hurdle. Different places handle it differently:
- Some US states will title a car on a bill of sale plus a VIN inspection. Easy.
- Others require a bonded title. More work, more cost, still routine.
- The UK uses the V5C; a missing one is solved with a V62 application to the DVLA.
- EU countries generally require proof of prior registration or a customs document for imports, then standard registration.
- Gulf, African and Caribbean states usually register on bill of sale, VIN and customs paperwork.
The pattern: the more bureaucratic the country, the more paperwork you’ll need. But there is a route everywhere. Nobody is stuck with an unregisterable car, and anyone who tells you otherwise hasn’t done it.
Full detail on the process in our register your striker car guide.
The VIN Is the Car’s Real Identity
Here’s the core principle that makes no-title buying safe: the title proves ownership. The VIN proves identity. And identity is what you actually need to check.
The VIN is a 17-character code stamped into the chassis and fixed to a plate, and it encodes the manufacturer, model, engine, plant and production sequence. It cannot be faked without physical work, and it’s cross-referenced in multiple independent databases.
Use it. Before you buy anything, run the VIN through:
- NHTSA VIN decoder — free, official, decodes the VIN and flags recalls and some history.
- NICB — the National Insurance Crime Bureau. Their free VIN check tells you whether the car has been reported stolen or salvaged.
- INTERPOL vehicle crime — the global stolen-vehicle database, essential for cross-border purchases.
- NMVTIS via vehiclehistory.gov — the US national motor vehicle title information system, the closest thing to a national title register.
- Wikipedia: VIN — for understanding what each section of the VIN actually means.
Five minutes with those four links answers the question that scares people most: is this car stolen?
The Two Documents That Actually Matter
Strip everything back and a legitimate no-title sale needs two things:
- A verifiable VIN on the car, matching the description.
- A written bill of sale naming buyer, seller, car, VIN, price and date.
That’s it. That’s the transaction. Everything else — bonding, registration, plates — comes after and can be solved.
A bill of sale is what a court, an insurer and a registration office will look at. Get it in writing, get the VIN on it, get it signed, and keep it forever.
How to Check a No-Title Car Isn’t Stolen
Do this properly and in order. It takes an afternoon.
Step 1 — Photograph the VIN plate and the chassis stamp. They should match each other and look original. Rivets should be factory-style, not obviously drilled and re-set.
Step 2 — Decode the VIN. Run it through the NHTSA decoder. Confirm the year, make, model, engine and plant match what you’re being told.
Step 3 — Run the stolen check. NICB for US records, INTERPOL for international. A clean result on both is what you want.
Step 4 — Check the title history. NMVTIS via vehiclehistory.gov shows title brands, salvage records and odometer events.
Step 5 — Check for liens. A lien means someone else has a claim. In the US this is usually visible via the state’s title record or NMVTIS.
Step 6 — Cross-check the story. Where did the car come from? Which auction? Which insurer? A seller who can answer is a seller worth trusting.
Step 7 — Check the border angle. If the car crossed a border, verify the export and import documents match the VIN.
Step 8 — Verify in person on arrival. Before paying the balance, match the physical VIN to the paperwork with your own eyes.
We walk through the full version on our how to check if a car is stolen page.
What a No-Title Car Is Worth
Let’s talk money, because this is why you’re here.
A no-title car typically sells for 30% to 50% below the equivalent titled car in the same condition. On a car worth $30,000, that’s $9,000 to $15,000 off.
Why the discount? Four reasons:
The buyer pool collapses. Most people want a tidy transaction. No title means admin, and admin scares them off.
Banks won’t finance it easily. No title, no collateral, no loan. Cash buyers only, which shrinks demand further.
Dealers avoid it. A dealer needs a title to retail a car, so trade-in offers are brutal.
The work is real. Bonding costs money and time. Registration takes visits. The discount compensates you for that.
Now add the second layer. Cars at our end of the market are already sourced from auctions, write-offs and export channels — no dealer margin, no finance, no warranty, no retail prep. Stack that on top of the no-title discount and you get numbers like the ones on our striker car price page.
That’s the arbitrage. You are being paid twice: once for the paperwork, once for the market’s laziness.
The Real Risks — Honestly
Now the part most sellers gloss over. Here’s what can actually go wrong.
The paperwork takes longer than you think. Bonding can take weeks. Registration can take visits. Budget time.
A lien can surface late. If a previous lender has a claim, you may have to settle it. Usually small, occasionally annoying.
A stolen record can complicate things. A recovered-stolen car is fine but carries a story. Check before you buy.
Insurance is fiddlier. Some insurers don’t like no-title cars. Specialist brokers do.
Financing is harder. Cash is the norm.
Resale is slower. You’ll sell to a smaller pool, though a bonded title closes most of that gap.
Scrap value is a floor. If all else fails, the car is worth its parts. That’s a genuine safety net, not a disaster.
Bond cost. In the US, a surety bond typically costs 1–2% of the appraised value. On a $5,000 car, that’s $50–$100. Not scary.
Odometer and frame risk. Same as any used car — verify.
Set against a 30–50% discount, these are manageable. But go in knowing them. Anyone selling you a no-title car with zero caveats is selling you a story.
What’s NOT a Risk — The Myths
Equal time for the nonsense.
“It’s stolen.” Usually not. Check the VIN and you’ll know in five minutes.
“You can never register it.” Wrong. Bonded title, V5C replacement, customs paperwork — there’s a route everywhere.
“It’s a wreck.” Sometimes, but plenty are straight cars with lost paperwork.
“Insurance won’t cover it.” It will. On the VIN, with a specialist.
“Banks won’t lend on it.” True-ish, and irrelevant if you’re paying cash.
“It’s worthless.” It’s worth 50–70% of a titled equivalent, and it has a parts floor.
Bonded Title: The Main US Route
If you’re titling a no-title car in most US states, this is the mechanism. It’s well established and entirely routine — see Wikipedia: bonded title.
1. Establish value. Get the car appraised or use a recognised value guide. The bond is based on this.
2. Buy a surety bond. Usually 1.5× the appraised value, costing 1–2% of it. A $5,000 car means a ~$7,500 bond for roughly $75–$150.
3. Submit the application. Bond, bill of sale, VIN inspection, photos, application form, fee.
4. The state issues a bonded title. You can now register, insure and drive.
5. Wait out the period. Typically three years. If nobody contests ownership in that window, the bond is released.
6. Convert to a clean title. Most states allow this after the period. Now the car is a normal car.
Costs a few hundred dollars and some patience. In exchange you turned a $5,000 car into an $8,000 car.
Outside the US — Country Quick Reference
United Kingdom. Missing V5C → apply with form V62 to the DVLA. Imports need NOVA and customs clearance. Straightforward.
Germany. Import needs customs and TÜV, then standard registration. Paperwork-heavy but clear.
Poland. Import plus customs, then registration at the local office (wydział komunikacji). Bill of sale and VIN needed.
Netherlands, Belgium, France, Italy, Spain. Import declaration plus national roadworthiness and registration. Each has its own route.
UAE and Gulf states. Registration on bill of sale, VIN and customs documents. Common and well understood.
Kenya, Nigeria, Ghana, Tanzania. Customs entry plus local registration. Bill of sale and VIN drive it.
South Africa. Import permit, customs, then registration. More involved, well documented.
Australia and New Zealand. Import approval, customs, compliance, then registration.
Caribbean and the Philippines. Bill of sale, customs, VIN inspection, registration.
Canada. Provincial rules. Some provinces title on bill of sale, others need more.
The universal pattern: bill of sale, VIN, customs, local registration. Solve the local step and you’re done. Details on our international no title cars page.
The Striker Car Model, Explained
Our model is specific, so here it is plainly.
We source cars in the United States — insurance write-offs, salvage auctions, fleet disposals, export channels — and sell them worldwide without titles. Every car has an intact, checkable VIN. You buy, we ship, you register locally.
The process:
- $1,000 deposit in USDT or Bitcoin. Details on our deposit wallets page.
- We ship to any port worldwide, with export documentation.
- You inspect on arrival. Your mechanic, your eyes.
- We register it in your name.
- You pay the balance on delivery.
Two payments. No finance, no credit check, no interest, no dealer margin. That structure is why the prices are what they are.
Is it the same as walking into a dealer and driving away with a title in the glovebox? No. It’s cheaper, and it asks more of you. That’s the trade — and it’s a good one if you understand it. See how to buy a striker car and what are striker cars.
How to Buy a Car With No Title — Step by Step
The full process, start to finish.
1. Decide your purpose. Daily driver, project, flip, export, or parts? This changes everything downstream.
2. Set your budget properly. Purchase price plus shipping plus duty plus bonding plus a repair fund. Not just the sticker.
3. Find the car. Auctions, exporters, dealers, private sellers, or us.
4. Get the VIN first. Never fall in love before the VIN check.
5. Run the checks. NHTSA, NICB, INTERPOL, NMVTIS. Decode, verify, cross-reference.
6. Get photos and video. All four corners, engine bay, interior, underside, VIN plate, odometer.
7. Ask for a condition report. Written, specific.
8. Agree a price and get it in writing. Bill of sale with full details.
9. Pay the deposit. Only to a verified seller or wallet.
10. Arrange shipping and export docs. Container or RoRo.
11. Inspect on arrival. Before the balance. Always.
12. Pay the balance. On delivery, as agreed.
13. Title and register. Bonded title in the US, local route elsewhere.
14. Insure it. On the VIN, then update after titling.
15. Fix the small stuff. Every used car needs something. Budget for it.
Follow that and the risk is low. Skip steps and you’ll find out which ones mattered.
Where to Buy a No-Title Car
Salvage auctions (Copart, IAAI and similar). The source of most no-title stock. Cheap, but you usually need a broker and you buy sight-unseen.
Exporters and striker sellers. Someone has already done the sourcing, vetting and shipping. You pay a margin, you skip the hassle. This is our lane.
Dealers. Some specialise in salvage and no-title stock.
Private sellers. Cheapest, most variable, most work.
Auction marketplaces. Online platforms listing salvage and export stock.
Each has a risk profile. Auctions are cheapest and riskiest. Exporters sit in the middle. Dealers are safest and dearest.
Red Flags When Buying a No-Title Car
Watch for all of these.
- No VIN plate, or a plate that looks re-riveted. Serious.
- VIN doesn’t decode, or decodes to a different car. Walk away.
- Seller won’t share the VIN. There’s a reason.
- No bill of sale offered. Insist.
- Cash-only, no receipts. Fine, but document it.
- Unresolved lien mentioned casually. Get it in writing.
- “It’s stolen” as an offhand joke. Check properly.
- Odometer inconsistencies. Rollback is common.
- Hidden frame damage. Get under it.
- Rust disguised with fresh paint. Look closely.
- Title “in another name” with no chain of sale. Get the chain.
- Pressure to pay fast. Time pressure hides problems.
- Photos that don’t match the car. Obvious but common.
Full list on our red flags to watch for when buying no title cars page.
Inspection: What to Check
Once the paperwork is clean, treat it as a normal used car.
Mechanically: compression, oil condition, coolant, belts, hoses, leaks, turbo or supercharger condition, gearbox behaviour, clutch, brakes, suspension.
Electronically: scan the ECU. Our OBD-II scanner reading guide covers what to look for and what the codes mean.
Structurally: panel gaps, weld quality, paint mismatch, underbody condition, chassis straightness. Our frame damage detection guide has the full method.
Historically: service records, mileage plausibility, tyre wear patterns, interior wear.
Water damage: damp smell, fogged lights, corroded connectors, tide marks.
Work through our mechanical inspection guide and the pre-purchase inspection checklist.
The Money Side — Full Budget
Never buy on the sticker price alone. The real number is:
- Purchase price — the car.
- Deposit — $1,000 with us, in crypto.
- Balance — on delivery.
- Shipping — container or RoRo, port to port.
- Customs, duty, VAT — set by your country. Check first.
- Bonding — 1–2% of value, US route.
- Registration — local fees.
- Insurance — get a quote before you commit.
- Repairs — always something. Budget it.
- Storage — if the port holds it.
On a $3,000 car, total landed cost might be $5,000–$7,000 depending on destination. Still far below a titled equivalent. But know the number before you start.
Insurance on a No-Title Car
You can insure a no-title car. You usually do it on the VIN, and you convert to a normal policy once titled.
Options:
- Specialist classic and salvage insurers who understand the situation.
- Agreed-value policies for modified or rare cars.
- Temporary cover while you sort the paperwork.
- Standard insurers — some will, some won’t. Ask.
Get three quotes. Tell them the situation up front. Don’t guess.
Financing a No-Title Car
Banks dislike it because there’s no clean collateral. Your options:
- Cash — simplest, cheapest, most common.
- Personal loan — unsecured, doesn’t care about the title.
- Specialist lenders — some lend against salvage and no-title stock.
- Seller finance — occasionally available.
If you can pay cash, do. The discount is the reward.
Resale — How You Exit
This is where a bonded title pays off.
Without a title: you sell to the same small pool, at the same discount. Cheap in, cheap out.
With a bonded title: most of the discount closes. You can now sell to normal buyers.
With a clean title after conversion: the car is normal. Full market value.
So the play is obvious. Buy cheap, title it, run it, sell it at a premium — or keep it and enjoy the fact that you got a $9,000 car for $4,000.
The Case For Buying a No-Title Car
Cheap performance. A 650hp supercharged Camaro for $3,500 is not a typo. See the full list below.
Cheap trucks and SUVs. The same discount applies to pickups, G-Wagens, Urus, Tahoes and Escalades.
Export arbitrage. Cars cheap in one market, dear in another. The no-title discount widens the gap.
Project cars. You’re going to strip it anyway. Why pay for a title?
Parts cars. The parts value often exceeds the purchase price.
Flipping. Buy cheap, title, sell at market. Real margin.
Collector finds. Occasionally a genuinely interesting car comes through at a silly price.
The Case Against
Paperwork. Real work. Real time.
Local rules. Some places are fussier than others.
Resale friction. Until you title it.
Cash requirement. Hard to finance.
Time to delivery. Shipping takes weeks.
Unknowns. Condition risk, same as any used car bought remotely.
If those don’t bother you, the discount is free money. If they do, buy titled and pay more. Both are valid.
Every Camaro We Have in Stock
Because it’s the car people ask about most, and because we have an absurd number of them, here is the complete Camaro inventory. Fourteen cars, every one a no-title striker car with an intact, checkable VIN. Prices from $2,800.
The ZL1s — Seven Supercharged Monsters
The ZL1 is the Camaro at its most extreme: 6.2-litre supercharged V8, 650hp, uprated chassis, brakes and cooling. We have seven.
The 2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE at $3,500 with 39,000 miles — the 1LE is the extreme track package, one of the fastest track cars GM has ever built.
The 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Coupe at $3,500 with 39,000 miles.
The 2023 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 at $5,000 with just 17,000 miles — the lowest-mileage ZL1 we have.
The 2023 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Coupe 2D at $5,000 with 31,000 miles.
The 2021 Camaro ZL1 at $5,500 with 26,000 miles.
Plus two more at $5,000 each: the 2022 ZL1 and the 2022 ZL1.
The SS and LT1 — The V8 Sweet Spot
455hp naturally aspirated V8, no supercharger, better value still.
The 2023 Camaro SS at $3,000 with 27,000 miles.
The 2023 Camaro SS at $5,500.
The 2016 Camaro 2SS at $3,000 with 27,000 miles.
The 2018 Camaro LT1 at $4,000 with 24,000 miles.
The 2022 Chevrolet Camaro LT1 Coupe at $5,000.
The RS and the Cheapest One
The 2022 Camaro RS at $5,000 with 21,000 miles.
And the cheapest car in the entire range: the Chevy Camaro Striker car at $2,800.
That’s fourteen. Seven ZL1s, five V8s, one RS and one bargain entry car. Full write-up on our cheap Camaro for sale page.
Other No-Title Cars Worth a Look
If a Camaro isn’t right, here’s the rest.
Muscle rivals: the 2020 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat at $4,500, the 2022 Dodge Challenger SRT Super Stock at $3,500, or the 2025 Ford Mustang GT at $5,000. See Dodge cars for sale and Ford cars for sale.
Four-door muscle: the 2021 Dodge Charger SRT Demon at $5,000 or the 2020 Dodge Charger Scat Pack WideBody at $3,500. See cheap Dodge Charger for sale.
American supercar: the 2023 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray at $6,000 or the 24 Vette Z06 Coupe 1LZ at $6,500. See cheap Corvette for sale.
JDM: the 2020 Nissan GT-R at $5,000.
German performance: the 2021 Audi RS 7 at $5,000 or the 2019 BMW M5 at $3,500. See Audi cars for sale and BMW cars for sale.
Two wheels: the 2021 Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade at $2,000.
The wider market: cheap supercars for sale, affordable striker cars and the full inventory.
Shipping a No-Title Car
Two routes: container and RoRo.
Container is safer. The car is inside, sealed, and protected from weather, salt and handling damage. We use side-opening containers so the car drives or is forklifted straight in — see container striker cars. Multiple cars can be consolidated.
RoRo (roll-on/roll-off) is cheaper per car but exposes it to the elements and terminal handling.
Either way, export documents travel with the car and match the VIN. Details on our export striker cars page.
Registering After Arrival
Once the car lands:
- Clear customs.
- Inspect the car against the paperwork.
- Take the bill of sale and VIN to your registration authority.
- Follow the local route — bonded title, V5C replacement, or standard import registration.
- Get plates.
- Insure it.
We help with our side and provide the documentation. You confirm local requirements. Full guide: register your striker car.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I legally buy a car with no title?
Yes. A bill of sale is a valid contract. Registration is a separate step with a defined route in almost every country.
Is a no-title car stolen?
Usually not. Check the VIN through NICB and INTERPOL and you’ll know.
How do I register a car with no title?
In the US, usually via a bonded title. Elsewhere, via your local replacement or import-registration route.
How much cheaper is a no-title car?
Typically 30–50% below the titled equivalent.
What is a bonded title?
A title issued against a surety bond when ownership can’t be proven normally. See Wikipedia.
How much does bonding cost?
Usually 1–2% of the car’s value.
Can I insure a no-title car?
Yes, on the VIN, usually with a specialist.
Can I finance one?
Yes, though a personal loan is easier than a secured one.
Can I ship a no-title car abroad?
Yes. Export documents travel with the car.
What if the VIN check shows stolen?
Then it’s a recovered-stolen car. Still buyable, but confirm the record is cleared.
What’s the risk of a lien?
Low, but check. An unresolved lien can surface later.
Should I inspect before paying the balance?
Always. That’s why our model works that way.
How many Camaros do you have?
Fourteen, including seven ZL1s, from $2,800.
How much is the deposit?
$1,000 in USDT or Bitcoin. See deposit wallets.
Do you ship worldwide?
Yes, to any port.
Is a no-title car worth it?
At a 30–50% discount with a route to a title, yes. See are striker cars worth it.